Culture & History 12 July 2023

A Guide to History and Heritage Sites in Alderney

Alderney, the third largest of the Channel Islands, has a fascinating history and unique local heritage. From Neolithic fortifications to the remnants of Alderney’s Occupation during the Second World War, a trip to Alderney allows you to walk through time.

Whether you’re interested in ancient history, have a fascination with Roman fortifications, want to learn more about the Island during World War Two or are a literary lover, there is something for you.

There are plenty of sites to explore that have been preserved and restored, as well as an award-winning museum documenting important historical events and discoveries.

Here are some to bookmark for your next trip to Alderney.

Historic Sites

Roman Fort - The Nunnery

Found just above Longis Bay, ‘The Nunnery’ is Britain's best preserved Roman small fort. It is the first evidence of military construction on our Islands and was originally built in the 4th century to defend the anchorage in Longis Bay harbour and the nearby Roman settlement. The fort is newly opened after undergoing major renovations and is now a museum documenting the history found here. There are storyboards, an information room, a large WWII bunker and more, with free admission daily.

Mannez Lighthouse

Alderney is the Channel Island nearest to the French coast and is surrounded by two strong currents: the Swinge and the Alderney Race. Mannez Lighthouse has watched over sailors trying to navigate the tumultuous waters of Alderney since 1912. The Lighthouse was built after a large boat, the SS Liverpool, ran aground in the adjacent Cats Bay. The lighthouse now has LED lights with a range of 12NM that are controlled from Trinity House in Harwich, UK, but there was a resident lighthouse keeper until as recently as 1996.

The Watermill

The Watermill in the Bonne Terre Valley is one of the oldest surviving sites on Alderney. The earliest record of the Mill is circa 1236 and the present ruins are the remains of a mill rebuilt in 1796. The Mill and adjoining lands were given to the Alderney Society, who continue to renovate and preserve this vital part of Alderney's history. With information boards about the ongoing work and its history, the Watermill is well worth a visit.

Roc à L’Epine

Near Fort Tourgis lies Roc à L’Epine, an ancient burial chamber dating from 4,000 BC, making it Alderney's oldest attraction. Its top-heavy flat stone rests on two supports. Whilst many of the island's other megalithic monuments have been largely destroyed or damaged over the last 200 years, Roc à L’Epine remains well preserved.

Iron Age Site

Discovered accidentally and subsequently excavated by the Alderney Society in the late 1960s, this site consists of a dry stone wall measuring 9 metres in diameter that enclosed a circular hearth and fire pit that is radio-carbon dated to 490 BC.

During the excavations a considerable volume of pottery, animal bones and small finds, such as bone tweezers and loom weights, were recovered. Evidence suggests that this represents a domestic late Bronze Age or early Iron Age site associated with pottery production. You can view some of the findings at the Alderney Museum.

Bibette Head

Bibette Head is the site of some of the most interesting and best-preserved German defences in the Channel Islands and, thanks to the effort of volunteers who have cleared the area, visitors can now explore inside. With extensive information boards, intact trenches, tunnels, armoured machine gun cupola and casemated gun positions, this site offers a remarkable insight into the fortification of the island.

Wartime Heritage

Tourgis Batteries

Following recent extensive clearance and conservation work, the Cambridge Battery and Battery No.3 (part of the northern defences of Fort Tourgis in Alderney) are now open to the public. Information boards offer insights into the history of these batteries and you can wander through the old tunnels and immerse yourself in the history. The site is open to the public - just remember to bring a torch to explore the tunnels.

Hammond War Memorial

During the Second World War, the whole of Alderney’s population was evacuated to mainland Britain. The Germans established four camps in Alderney with as many as 4,000 forced labourers. This memorial was built by Alderney's residents upon their return to the island to commemorate the forced labourers who died on the island as a result of maltreatment. There are five main plaques in Russian, Hebrew, Polish, French and Spanish and a smaller plaque in Russian reading 'Hunger and unbearable hardships took your lives' which was erected in 1990 by Russian slaves who survived.

Wildlife Bunker

The Wildlife Bunker is a restored Dezimetergerät (a structure that housed communication equipment) which was constructed on the south coast headland by the occupying German forces between 1940 and 1945. The Alderney Wildlife Trust cleared and partially restored the bunker to its original condition in 2002 and continues to maintain it.

There are information boards covering history and natural history, offering visitors the chance to understand how mankind has affected Alderney’s environment over the years. This bunker is also home to nesting swallows every Spring.

The Odeon

This MP3 concrete tower was built by forced labourers under the German occupying forces in 1943. Initially, it was intended as a naval range-finding position to observe enemy ships and was to be part of a network with five other similar towers placed around the island. Newly reopened to the public, there are 4 floors to explore. On a clear day the observation levels, one of which has a telescope, offer amazing views out to France.

Please note that the Odeon is on a cliff edge, there are sheer drops and children should be closely supervised at all times. Unfortunately, the site is not accessible to wheelchairs as it has steps, steep staircases and uneven surfaces that those with restricted mobility or impaired vision might find difficult to navigate.

Fort Clonque

Fort Clonque was designed in 1847 to protect the Channel Islands from capture by the French as they became more strategically useful. It fell into disuse before being rescued by the Landmark Trust in 1966 and now provides comfortable self-catering accommodation for 13 spread across several buildings. The fort is perched on a group of large rocks, is reached by a causeway leading to a drawbridge and is cut off from the rest of the island at high tide - so be careful to time your visit well.

PaK Bunker

This Type 380 Bunker at Douglas Quay was constructed by the occupying German forces during WWII and would have housed a 7.5 cm PaK anti-tank gun. Following an extensive volunteering effort, it has been cleared and is open to the public. Experience the inside of the bunker and learn about the structure, along with other nearby historic features. 

Museums, Galleries and Preservation Sites

Alderney Museum

Built in 1790, this building was once the island’s school and is packed with local history and charm. The award-winning museum documents the history of the island from the prehistoric period to the present day and hosts lectures and presentations by knowledgeable speakers. There are many fascinating displays, including an extensive display of Alderney’s Elizabethan shipwreck and the recent discovery of Roman remains.

They also house the original Womble soft toys, donated by the author's family together with memorabilia donated by people on and off island. Elisabeth Beresford, the author of The Wombles, lived in Alderney permanently from 1978 until her death in 2010, and the island was very special to her. Visitors can browse through a scrapbook of stories and photos and play the CD specially recorded for the exhibition by Bernard Cribbins, the voice of the Wombles.

Alderney Bayeux Tapestry Finale

Experts believe that the Bayeux Tapestry, which ends just after the Battle of Hastings, would originally have had some more panels and would have finished with the Coronation of William the Conqueror in Westminster Abbey. Alderney resident, Kate Russell, had the idea of 'completing' the tapestry with a three-metre-long panel and local designer, Pauline Black, created Alderney’s Bayeux Tapestry Finale.

The style is in keeping with the original tapestry, with the only quirky addition being a donkey, a toad and a puffin to represent the Channel Islands. Over 400 people contributed stitches to the tapestry, including King Charles and Queen Camilla, and it is on display in the Alderney Library.

Le Passage Gallery

Le Passage Gallery is Alderney's first permanent Gallery for Contemporary Fine Art. Visitors can enjoy the Art Gallery as well as its two Sculpture Gardens. As well as painting, drawing, sculptures and mixed media pieces, the gallery also has a rolling programme of exhibitions which are often changed.

St Anne's Church

The church of St Anne was consecrated in 1850 and built to the design of Sir George Gilbert Scott, one of the most prolific architects of the 19th century. The church is often referred to as ‘The Cathedral of the Channel Islands’ because of its size, but the original intention was that it should serve not only as a parish church for the island but also as the garrison church for the military stationed here in the mid 19th century.

The Bell Tower

St Anne's Church is home to the only peal of twelve ‘Taylor’ bells in the Channel Islands, rung by a dedicated team of nearly two dozen volunteers. The bells of St Anne have a fascinating history. Originally there were six but these were removed during the German Occupation. Four were sent to Cherbourg to be melted down for munitions but survived, were located after the war and returned to Alderney to be recast and re-hung with the other two surviving bells. A newly refurbished peal of 12 bells was installed in 2013. Ringing and non-ringing visitors are always welcome but please note that practices take place on Monday at 5pm.

The Alderney Bird Observatory

The only Bird Observatory in the Channel Islands, you can venture here to see the huge variety of birds that call Alderney home and attend meetings and events for people interested in birdwatching.

Alderney West Coast and the Burhou Islands

This protected zone is made up of the western coast of Alderney and the adjacent shallow waters and islets. It comprises diverse and interrelated ecosystems, such as sandy beaches with shingle banks, rock pools, sandbars and rocky marine and pebble beach shores. The rocky islets are a very important bird breeding place. The Garden Rocks and Ortac are home to 2% of the world’s gannet population and there is a seal colony to the north of Burhou Island. The site also hosts about 100 varieties of seaweed which play an important role in preserving the species that reside here.

Discover even more history and heritage sites on the Islands of Guernsey here.

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